The Cape Wrath Trail 2012 part 4

 

 

The Cape Wrath Trail 2012  part 4 

 

 

Day 10

The black stuff

 

Glendhu Bothy to Kinlochbervie

39.4km

14th May

Today we awoke to the gentle whistle of the wind outside, it was dryer, overcast and a lot calmer than yesterday, during breakfast we again discussed how far to go! Because we didn’t have a weather report we decided to join another two days together and get to the Kinlochbervie Hotel, the original plan was only to go as far as Laxford bridge, Most of the walking was to be on the black stuff which we could cover relatively quickly and easily. Because of a poor phone signal we weren’t booked into the hotel, we were going to do this on the way and if we couldn’t get a room the backup plan was to go to the shelter of the ruins at Sandwood bay.

Following breakfast and packing up we were on our way along the track at the shore side, the sun was trying to break through, one minute it was bright the next dull, one minute wet the next dry. It was going to be one of those days where waterproofs and wind shirts were on and off like a Prostitutes underwear, stop start all the way. It was easy going along the track to Maldie where there was a new bridge and heavy construction taking place, Big machines and huge pipes everywhere,

 

 

This is where we turned right off the track leaving Loch Glendhu behind, onto another which leads uphill heading towards Reay Forest and Achfary, Still easy going on a good track uphill passing the lochs of an Leathaid Bhuain and Loch na Creige Duibhe which we guessed were going to be dammed due to all the marking posts at the bottom end and a new road being built to them on the opposite side. Once past the lochs the track veers away west and soon converges with another track where it was a right turn over some exposed rock strewn ground with a fantastic view of Ben Stack to your left, Reay Forest and Foinaven to your front. We had a 15 minute break out of the cold wind in the remains of a shieling at the top, it wasn’t much but it was the only shelter in the area.

 

 

Now begins the descent as you turn round the West side of Meall Diamhain exposing a view of the head of Loch More and Ben Sceavie in the background,

 

 

 

 

 

Continuing downwards and through the edge of Reay Forest, boggy in places, you soon pop out on the A838 at Lochmore Lodge, Here we turned left and began the rest of the days long plod on the horrible black stuff.

 

 

The wind in the glen was cold but the sun was out. Still no phone signal to confirm the hotel booking! Onwards putting one foot in front of the other over and over again passing Loch Stack and Stack Lodge, with beautiful scenery all around us we progressed towards our next junction at Laxford Bridge now in a light drizzle.

 

A lack of land marks made navigation a problem !

A phone signal had now returned and a booking of a room was soon confirmed. On Reaching Laxford Bridge we turned right onto the A894, still raining, this was a busy road compared to the other, with long straight and wide sections. Now we were heading for Rhiconich hotel for our next break, surly this time we would get a fruit scone and jam! It seemed to take forever to get there, when we did arrive we were ready for a rest and a stock up of junk food.

 

Now refreshed by our hot cup of tea and NO fruit scone, the last leg of the day lay before us, it was only about four miles away. Simple but dull walking, I just can’t seem to switch on when walking on the black stuff! Passing through the scattered village of Achriesgill and down to the fishing village of Kinlochbervie, with its almost empty harbour,

 

 

 

 

First stop was the local shop where we were to stock up on celebratory food and drink for tomorrow at the cape and Kevaig Bothy, A tin of Haggis, a tin of peas, a pint of real milk and a bottle of Crabbie’s ginger beer(I’m T total) With packs laden with the extra weight we were soon at the hotel, I collected another parcel from the reception(a fly rod and reel and more food that I didn’t need) That evening we decided to opt for a bar meal, Steak pie and chips, Mmmm, that would hit the spot!. While we were eating, Shaun contacted the ferryman to organise our crossing tomorrow, when he came off the phone he wasn’t convinced that it was organised properly as the gentleman was in the pub sounding a bit, Ehh, how do I put it?****** Pished! So shaun also sent a text for when he woke up in the morning. We managed to get our stinking washing done but not dried by the hotel, it was going to be dried in the room on a makeshift washing line that we set up,

 

 

 

 

 then it was time to catch up with home and prepare for the last leg of the walk before bed.

ZZZZzzzz !

 

 

 

 

 

Day 11

Reaching the Cape

 

Kinlochbervie to Cape Wrath

26.7km

15th May

 

This was the day that it had all led up to; Cape Wrath was in our sights today. We were like kids on Christmas morning, awake early full of anticipation and excitement, packed up and with a good breakfast in us we headed off for the last time, with a renewed spring in our step we were out of the hotel as if it was our first day, turning left onto the road heading for Sheigra. The morning was dry and bright with a cool wind. The going was easy with gradual ups and downs passing the scattered village of Oldshoremore all the way to Blairmore where there is a sign indicating the direction through a gate to Sandwood bay. We stopped at the car park just a few yards on for a 15 minute break in the lee of the public toilets.

 

Back to the sign post and through a gate on a good track passing various lochs along the way. The ground around us was open moorland of heather and grass which gave us an indication of what the going was going to be like once we left sandwood bay where there was going to be no track or path. Passing the East side of Druim na Buainn is when you get your first glimpse of Sandwood loch below you, as you progress along the track Sandwood Bay comes into view like a picture being revealed with the turn of the next page. It is as beautiful as you imagine, worth every step of the Trail,

 

 time has to be taken to soak in the vista before moving on across the beach and crossing the shallow burn that flows out of Sandwood Loch.

 

 

Now begins the hard work of the day, the first of four steep climbs for us before reaching the Cape. Once over the first the ground at the bottom was as we expected, boggy and full of tussocks, we decided to stick to the high ground close to the edge because it would be drier and easier underfoot, which it was.

 

 

 In the distance we could see our goal, the lighthouse. We finally reached the road after crossing the flat bog which lies between Cnoc a Ghiubhais and the road itself, During a rest at the road side I had a look at my boots because my left foot was wet but not my right, I had been suspicious of this for the last couple of days. They were new boots at the start of the walk so water must have gone over the top when crossing the bog, No, they were falling to bits, a split between the sole and the upper and the material was breaking down.

 Back to finishing the job in hand, off we went along the road finally rounding the foot of Dunan Mor to reveal the lighthouse.

 

 

 

 It was over, pictures were taken and congratulations given to each other whilst we broke out the celebratory drinks and relaxed in the sun. What a view!

 

 

 

 

 

We had been told that there was a café at the cape but we weren’t sure if it was a wind up or not as the place looked deserted with no obvious signs of a café. We knocked on the door and we were welcomed in for refreshments, Tea and cakes, last chance to get a fruit scone and jam, “None! Unbelievable!” I don’t think there are any fruit scones in Scotland North of Fortbilly.

The chap from the lighthouse offered us a lift to the road end of Kervaig Bothy (I was taking that!) because we couldn’t get off the Cape until the morning, or so we hoped, given the uncertainty of Shaun’s phone call last night. I had now mentally switched off from walking anymore now that I had reached the end.

From the road end it wasn’t far to the Bothy, what a spectacular setting, in a green park with its own beach which is flanked by cliffs. Stunning!

It couldn’t get any better than this, or could it?

 

 For the last time we got ourselves organised in the Bothy after scavenging for firewood on the beach, dinner was made and the fire was on, it was now time to relax in the warmth and reflect on all our experiences of the Trail. The sunset that night at the cape was the perfect icing on the proverbial cake; it lasted about 25 minutes while we stood there awestruck,

It could get better and It just did !

JOB DONE!

ZZZZzzzz !

 

 

 

 



 

•  

The Cape Wrath Trail 2012 part 3

Day 8

A forced march and the race against time

Schoolhouse Bothy to Glencoul Bothy

47.6km


12th May

 

This day started Bright and cool, so we began our day at a leisurely pace as we were only going as far as Benmore Lodge, or so we originally thought, Shaun informed me that he had heard from either Stevie or a family member, bad weather was forecast for our area, high winds, this would be a problem for me because of the tent I had with me. After packing up we set off at about nine o’clock for Oykel bridge discussing our options as we went along the track in Glen Einig if the forecast turned out to be right,

It wasn’t long before we reached the bridge and the Oykel Hotel,

this was another opportunity not to be missed, acquiring a cup of tea accompanied by a lovely big fruit scone and jam, this had to be a dead cert! Outside the hotel were several 4 x 4’s and cars with Salmon fly rods on racks, poised for a day’s action along with a ghillie were a load of well to do Ladies and Gentlemen dressed in plus four tweeds and brogues, then there was us, mucky and smelly, in we go for the refreshments, expecting to be thrown out at any time, but we were welcomed with open arms and served with the best silver and china.

“I don’t believe it, no scones in a country hotel!” Shaun took the operchancity to check the weather reports with the ghillies, it was bad news, storms were on the way. We left the hotel refreshed and headed up Glen Oykel in the direction of Benmore Lodge discussing the possibility of joining tomorrow onto today so that we could get to the shelter of Glencoul Bothy as there was no obvious shelter in the area between here and there, If we managed it, it would be a huge day because of the distance and lack of paths over peat haggy ground not to mention ending the day with a hard ascent and descent in the area of Eas a chual Aluinn waterfalls. We decided to go for it as we didn’t like the thought of spending the night in our sleeping bags inside our survival bags, if it was to be as bad as we were told then there would be no tent that could stand up to it. As it turned out this was to be the best decision we were to make during the entire walk. There were now only 2 priorities, 1. Getting to Shauns stash of food, 2. Getting to the Bothy before dark, this meant picking up the pace and turning it into a forced march.

The walk along Glen Oykel was simple, on a good farm track with no ups and downs to speak of, the sun was out and we had a good view of the river meandering along the glen floor all the way to Salachy, which is a ruined dwelling house within a collapsed perimeter wall at the edge of the forest.

At this point we left the track, turning right through Salachy and into the forest fire break which leads uphill to connect with a forest road that runs parallel with the track we were on. Once we reached the road, which wasn’t far or hard to complete, we turned left and were soon by the shore of Loch Ailsh at a junction with the road leading to the lodge,

it was now raining lightly and the wind was starting to pick up, right turn and past the various houses and the lodge itself, we were now looking for a sheltered spot to have a break, This done, we were off again knowing that the hard bit was still to come, but at least it was dry again. Leaving the forest on a track/path, it was open moor land with good views of Sail an Ruathair and Meall an Aonaich to our front,

the path/tack was boggy and intermittent to begin with but as we gained height over the shoulder of Meall an Aonaich it became drier and more established. Nearing the top of the shoulder the wind was getting very strong and cold, it had started raining again, this was an incentive to keep moving so that we could get to the lee side of the hill. Once over, we were rewarded with the grand vista of Glen Cassley, a vast open peat bog that stretches for miles, I was glad we didn’t have to cross it because it looked boggy, tussocky and haggy.

We continued along the path that hugs the foot of Ben More Assynt and Beinn Uidhe on the North side. Whenever we passed a Beallach to our left the wind became extremely strong, pushing us about on the track, we could only imagine what it was like on the other side of the hill. The path/track was easy to follow, occasionally boggy at times, all the way to Loch Bealach a Mhadaidh where the wind coming down from the Bealach was whipping the surface water into the air. From here, without a path, the going was going to be a nightmare, sandwiched between Cailleach an t-Sniomha and Gorm Loch Mor until we reached the path that led up Leathad Riabhach.

I have been sitting here trying to think of a way to express the severity of this section to you, instead I will list descriptive words and leave it to you to paint the picture,           up and down, boggy, haggy, tussocks, boulder strewn, pouring, windy, cold, trip, slip, slide, Jesus Christ and never again, do you get the picture? With that section out of the way we climbed up on a faded path to where Shaun’s stash was hidden beside a wee loch, he left it there a few months before, Knackered I slumped behind a large boulder and left Shaun to go and find it while I had a rest(some friend!), he reappeared looking like a kid in a sweet shop, clutching a black bin bag, excitedly he opened it up to reveal a couple of roses tins and inside them a cache of undamaged goodies wrapped in plastic , all the contents were quickly thrown into both rucksacks as time was getting on and we still had a few miles to go.

The light was starting to fade, from here we back tracked to the steep path that led down into the glen below. Now the race was on to get to the bothy before dark, I was carrying a Spot 2 GPS tracker and was concerned that Moira (my wife) would be tracking us and thinking that something had gone wrong. The going wasn’t easy as we followed the meandering burn and old fence down the glen, occasionally tripping on the fallen wire from the fence which was hidden in the heather. We eventually arrived at the bothy, with head torches on, at eleven o’clock, just after dark and the first thing I did was to send Moira a Spot 2 check-in-ok message to put her mind at rest. The wind coming up from Kylesku was fierce, it was howling around the buildings and hillsides of Glencoul, we didn’t hang about outside. Indoors it was tranquil compared to outside, we had the fire going, dinner was on and we were organised for the night within a jiffy.
An end to a very long and challenging day, in the safety and warmth of the Bothy!
ZZZZzzzz

 

Day 9

The Storm at Glencoul

Glencoul Bothy to Glendhu Bothy

6.3km

13th May

 

 

Today we were awoken from our warm slumber to the roar and howling of the storm outside, the doors were rattling and the roof was creaking. Slowly we emerged from our sleeping bags to go and stick our noses outside for a look, Wow! We didn’t stay at the door for long, it was wild out there!

Over breakfast we again discussed our options, do we stay or do we go? The wind was so strong, from the door we could see the water in the loch being lifted up in great columns  which were then thrown against the hillside that we were supposed to be going over and the waterfalls on the same hill weren’t falling to bottom of the cliffs, they were rising vertically into the air as if the cliffs had chimneys, Oh my god! 

 

A unanimous decision was reached, we stay!

Now how do we keep ourselves occupied when we hadn’t anticipated being stuck here!
Well I went out scavenging for wood, whilst shaun had another novel way to achieve something, there was a huge piece of drift wood that someone (overzealous) had taken into the bothy, it was too big to be practical for the fire, so Shaun, armed with one of the blunt Bothy saws set about it. He sawed away at it for over an hour, sweat dripping from his forehead, before it fell in two. One cup of coffee followed by a cup of tea, another bit of wood for the fire, do you fancy a cup of coffee? that’s how the day progressed. You know there isn’t anything more exhilarating, the feeling of being alive, than going outside to answer the call of nature in a storm, squatting there without a care in the world with a gale whistling between the cheeks of your arse while you admire the grand vista that lies before you! Cabin fever and Boredom were setting in! We were now starting to show the signs and symptoms of the itchy feet syndrome. The wind had now dropped or we convinced ourselves that it had, we decided to try and get to Glendhu Bothy which was less than four miles away. Leaving our packs behind we went for a RECCE at the path where it traverses the hillside leading to the shoulder of the headland, it was doable with caution, or so we reckoned, each time a squall came, which we could see on the water below us, we would drop to the ground and let it pass over us.

We returned to the Bothy for a final cup of coffee before we collected our packs and made the agreement that if either one of us wasn’t happy with the situation then we would both return to the Bothy, again we headed out into the storm once more, this time it was different, the wind was catching our packs like a sail, continually spinning us on the spot and pushing us against the hillside, it was extremely hard work just reaching the shoulder of the headland. At the shoulder just before we turned the corner the path wanders away from the hillside onto a flattish area before it turns to go down the other side, no matter how hard we tried we couldn’t get to it, Every time we stepped away from the hillside and out into the open we were blown off our feet, we were unable to get to the path even though it was only about ten feet away. On our hands and knees we decided to hug the hill side until the path came to us down at the wooded area near to the bottom on the lee side. When finally we reached the bottom exhausted, we still had a burn to cross that would now be a raging river at the head of Lochdhu, a bridge was shown on the map but was the bridge there? If not we may have to go all the way back to the start point.

It was there, we crossed without any concerns or incidents finally reaching the bothy where we got organised for the night.

Some kind person had left a bucket of coal behind along with a pile of wood, they must have known that we were going to arrive in a cold and awful state.

This was the shortest day’s walk of the trip at under 4 miles but it was by far the longest 4 miles I have ever done, we set off at 15:45 and arrived at 19: 30, Tough going but the Gore-tex held out, shame the Sealskinz gloves didn’t! It was now time to reflect on the days events whilst getting things dried out.

ZZZZzzzz !

The Cape Wrath Trail 2012 part 2

Day 4

Bearneas Bothy to Kinlochewe

8th May
31km



 

The fifth day started cold and bright with good views outside the Bothy, all the hill tops had a new cap of snow on them and a mist was rolling down into the glen over Bealach Bearnais with the sun rising above it in the background, a great start to the day!.

Once packed we headed off up the path at the side of the Bothy, which was to take us over Baobh-bhacan Dubha, again this was an intermittent path, visibility deteriorated nearer to the top due to low cloud base. I was carrying a Satmap GPS with me and used it to confirm our position when the path faded out near to the top, the plan was to find the two small lochs to our right so that we could connect with the path once more,

this done it was easy going on the path which leads to the cliffs of Creag a` Chaorainn. Visibility was poor at the cliffs but the rocky path down was easy to follow, zigging and zagging until it levelled out under the cloud base, now we had a great view of Achnashellach with Sgorr Ruadh in the background and the coulin Pass which was the route we were going to be taking.

The path down enters the forest and soon we were on the forest road at the bottom, from here we turned left (rather than complete the 3 mile dog-leg to the bridge and back) to find the planned spot to cross the river Carron, this spot was where the river was at its widest with an island in it.
Now!, Shaun has a novel way of crossing a river, it looks a bit odd to say the least but it works, he arrived on the far bank with dry feet, I on the other hand I had a pair of trainers for the job, but I took about four times longer than shaun took to cross.

With the crossing complete we made our way along the road to the train station or should I say platform where we were to take a short break before ascending to the Coulin Pass.
With the break over we set off on the ascent through the forest refreshed by our break on a good metaled road only to be turned back down to almost the road side again by a diversion due to forest operations, this was Bl##dy frustrating as we ended up back at where we had first reached the road before our break only to start the ascent all over again. This time it was on a narrow footpath which led to the East side of the forest before it meandered up to the top where it joined the metaled road once more,

 through a gate at the back side of the forest and down the other side with great views down, presumably of Glen Coulin.

We stopped under the buckled bridge that crosses the river Coulin at Torran Coulin for our main break of the day as it had started to drizzle now. After our break we entered the forest directly behind Torran Coulin house on a good forest road, about half a mile into the forest we turned off to the right onto a boggy intermittent footpath which had blown trees over it, it led out of the forest and onto the open ground of Feith an Tairbh.

All over the open ground there was white fleece about 10’x10’ pegged to the ground, we have no idea what they were for but we did have a few guesses which included insect research by boffins and markers for personal food drops by air for other walkers,  Now the path enters what was once a forest at a deer fence with a large gate, the descent isn’t as straight forward as you would think, because of the tree felling, the old path has presumably been obliterated and the new path descends and then ascends over and over again until you finally reach the far corner at the bottom, the path from here is marked with posts but it wasn’t long before we lost them, fafing about wasting time looking for them we decided to cross the open field and river in front of Cromasaig to complete the days walk on the horrid black stuff into Kinlochewe.

On arrival at Kinlochewe we went straight round to the caravan park because this was where I had sent a food parcel some time before by post, once collected the next stop was the shop to get the elusive fruit scones and stock up for the second half of the walk with junk food, but alas still no scones to be had. Our night was at the Kinlochewe Hotel Bunkhouse, good hot showers and a soft pillow. I think it was at this point that Shaun heard from Stevie, He was too unwell to continue so had returned home. Once organised in the bunkhouse dinner was high on the list of priorities, “Sod it, a bar meal! NO CHIPS ON THE BAR MENU!” What’s that all about? There were five other people (canoeists) in the bunkhouse they also were in for a bar meal, but when they heard us go on about no chips on the menu they left and went to the café around the corner where they could get chips. Steak pie and mashed spuds, it’s not quite the same! Anyway, moan out of the way and moving on, back to the bunkhouse to catch up with home and get ready for bed.

No planning needed for tomorrow as it was to be my day off, Shaun was going to have his day off at Ullapool the day after. We agreed to meet up at either Knockdamph Bothy or the Schoolhouse Bothy, whichever of us reached Knockdamph Bothy first would leave a message in the bothy book if they were going on to the schoolhouse Bothy. ZZZZzzzz!








Day 5

Kinlochewe - day off at the bunkhouse

9th May

The day started overcast and cool, Shaun packed up his kit and said his goodbyes, he was heading for Ullapool today while I lay about.
As this was a day of rest, organising my kit and doing my laundry, I’ll use this opportunity to blab on about the kit I had with me, to some it may be interesting if they are considering doing the CWT but to others it will be dull, so just skip this chapter out.

Rucksack

Osprey Exos 46 (1.09kg) and rain cover – I decided to change this year from my Hagloffs Matrix 70 (1.7kg) due to its reviews, weight, functionality of the external pockets and back system. There was an annoying squeak from it which I wasn’t aware of until Shaun pointed it out to me on the second last day; this had been bugging him since almost the start of the walk. The pole carrying system on the shoulder strap worked well for holding the waterproof map case.

Tent

GoLite Shangri-la 3 (1.2kg) – Another change from last year as mentioned before, a huge amount of space to weight ratio which was incorporating the Oook nest half inner with an inverted T zip, This was purchased from Oookworks.com , made to the specifications that you desire and is worth every penny, this inner opens up the entire floor space allowing you to cook indoors in poor weather or even hold a barn dance. The only down side with the tent is its high profile, I had no confidence with it in a high wind, of which there was plenty in the second half of the walk.

Sleeping (1,210g)

The sleeping mat was the Neo Air regular (410g)
Sleeping bag was the Vango Venom 300 down bag (800g)

Cooking (2,788g)

Honey stove (362g)
Trangia meth’s burner (120g)
Evernew Titanium Solo Cook Set (149g)
Trangia 1ltr meths bottle (1,160g)
Sigg 600ml water bottle (750g)
Travel tap 500ml (180g)
Titanium long spoon (17g)
Light My Fire Oak Fire Steel (50g)
50ml Fairy liquid and pot scourer (65g)

Food (6.5 kg) – half posted forward to Kinlochewe and the Kinlochbervie Hotel

5 X freeze dried main meals & 5 X freeze dried puddings from be-well.co.uk
5 X Home-made dehydrated meals
10 X Alpen Porridge oats vacuum packed with sugar and powdered milk
20 X sachets of 3 in1 coffee
20 x Cereal snack bars (more picked up along the way)

Washing Kit (240g)

Medium travel towel, half a bar of Dettol soap, cut down toothbrush and mini paste, nappy rash cream, disposable razor with detachable head, mini deodorant, tissues and folding wash bowl.

Clothing (4,182g)

Salamon Cosmic 4D boots (620g)
Merrell waterpro mesh trainers (350g)
Berghaus extreme Gore-Tex jacket (480g)
Montane Atomic waterproof trousers (170g)
Outdoor Designs Gore-Tex gaiters (280g)
Outdoor research cap (50g)
Sealskinz waterproof gloves (180g)
Karrimor down jacket (450g)
Montane trousers (255g) and shorts (200g)
Montane Featherlite Smock (100g)
Salomon Trail Runner II 1/2 Zip Tech Tee (130g)
Mountain Hardwear wicked lite T shirt (120)
Berghaus long sleeve zip T shirt (212g)
4 pairs of Coolmax socks (240g)
3 pairs of Baw bags (270g)
Sunglasses & case (75g)

First aid kit (270g)

Medium dressing, T bandage, assorted plasters, roll of fabric tape, Anadin extra, anti diahorrea tablets, burns gel, scissors, Rennies, Lightweight Emergency Bivvy/survival bag, chap stick, Wound glue and paper stiches.


Electrical (2,182g)

Samsung waterproof phone (100g)
Apple ipod shuffle & headphones (25g)
Canon SX40HS camera/case and 4 spare batteries (1,150g) 2 x batteries posted forward
Satmap Active 10 and 9 x 2900mah batteries (480g) 6 x batteries posted forward
10,000 mah battery pack (250g)
Spot 2 GPS tracker & 3 X spare AAA batteries (150g)
Pizel E+Lite head torch (27g)



Miscellaneous (1,677g)

Leki Makalu Corklite speedlock poles (542g) pair
Zippo lighter and other stuff to go with it! (150g)
Combination knife (100g)
6 x various sized dry bags (250g)
10 x OS Land Ranger maps cut down (460g) 5 posted forward
Compass (50g)
Suntan lotion & insect repellent (125g)







Day 6

Sign post error

Kinlochewe to Dunonnell

31km

10th May

Up at stupid O’clock in the morning to have my breakfast and pack up, I had put all my kit into the bunkhouse kitchen the night before so that I wouldn’t wake up all the other people who were snorting and snoring, burping and farting, but there is always a floorboard or a door that creeks when you least expect it. Today my pack was going to be at its heaviest again because of the restocking, I noticed it as soon as I put it on, just like the first day. The morning began cool, dry and a bit overcast.
Out of the bunkhouse turning right onto the A832 for a short distance to where I turned off left over the Kinlochewe river to Incheril, as you walk along this road you have a good view of Loch Maree down the glen to your left, Now here is a question for all you history boffins out there, Kinlochewe means head of Loch Ewe, So obviously the loch has had a name change at some point in history, why, when and who was Maree?

Once you reach the end of the road you pass through a gate onto a farm track which leads to the heights of kinlochewe, this part is very easy,

all the way to a junction were I turned left through another gate which is the entrance into a new indigenous hardwood forest. If I had turned right it would have led me to the film set of Stardust, a film where Robert Deniro plays a camp, closet transvestite pirate in in a ship that flies. I forgot about it at the time so didn’t visit.
The walk uphill at first isn’t hard and you are soon descending Gleann na Muice on a gravel foot path all the way to Loch Fada, about half way down the glen there is a junction in the foot path which has a metal sign post, it is wrong, someone has scratched this fact onto it, so check your map, don’t rely on the sign.

The view down Loch Fada flanked by the mountains of Slioch, Sgurr Dubh, Bein Lair and Beinn Tarsuinn is superb, almost at the loch I turned right uphill with no path, the going was easy underfoot as the ground was dry, the higher up Bealach Ban I got the stronger and colder the wind got.
The two landmarks that I was aiming for were firstly, Loch Meallan an Fhudair which I missed by quite a bit to the west and then the waterfall which I hit bang on,

from here I could see Bealach na Croise in front of me at about the same height as me, but the ground in-between dropped away quite a bit before rising up once again, so I simply skirted round to the west keeping at the same height,

once at Bealach na Croise I found a path which isn’t shown on my map, this was intermittent and at times a bit rocky, it headed for the path at the side of Loch an Nid. I was having a great day with simple walking, enjoying the views of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, Sgurr Ban and Beinn a Chlaidheimh with their exposed great slabs of rock.

On reaching the junction with the track that leads down into Strath na Sealga and Shenavall Bothy I decided to have a good long break in the sunshine.

Now came the ascent on a good metaled track over Dundonnell Forest (no trees), Again as I gained height the wind became colder until I dropped down into the lee of the hill and into the open woodland of Gleann Chaorachain where I encountered the wild goats, some of the kids were up the trees, it’s amazing to see a goat climb a tree!

When I popped out onto the A832 it was a left turn then only a short five minute walk on the black stuff, then it was now a right turn over an old stone bridge heading towards Dundonnell house.

Just over the bridge past the farm buildings there is a thin strip of land between the road and the river, this is where I chose to camp for the night as there is a thick layer of moss over the ground which is then covered in last year’s leaves from the mature beech trees that overhang the area, very comfy and warm!.

I decided that when my tent was up and I was organised for the night that I would nip along to the Dundonnell Hotel for dinner, I didn’t look at the map, I had assumed that it wasn’t far away, Mmmm! over 5 miles to it and back along the shores of Little Loch Broom, but the food was very good. Having returned from my epic march to get dinner, it was time for bed and bring a close to a fantastic days walk. ZZZZzzzz !



Day 7

Race to the Bothy

Dundonnell to the School House Bothy

36.7km

11th May


This day started cold and wet; there was definitely a change in the weather this week, so unfortunately I wasn’t taking my camera out of its dry bag until it had stopped raining.
Following the normal mornings routine it was time to backtrack to the bridge and turn left immediately before it, through a gate and up a track which led past a house on the left, once past the house the track continues along the bank of the river at the edge of a field with steep sides, turn left and cross the field which is uphill towards the tree line of an open wood, no path, once you reach the tree line you will find an old path which will take you to Inver broom Lodge. The footpath was very wet and had blown trees all over it, This section is steep in places but you soon pop out onto open moorland which remains up and down on a faded quad track at times all the way to the start of the descent at Creag Bhriste, nearer to the bottom as you approach the forest it becomes very steep on grass, when wet it’s very slippy and I ended up on my backside several times (each time the air was blue with obscenities!). Once at the bottom I had a break out of the rain in the shelter of the bus stop before crossing the river and turning left onto the A835 which leads to Ullapool, I was only going as far as Campbelltown which is just before Leckmelm, this was a miserable, cold and wet walk on the black stuff on a very busy road with the driving rain in my face. This road walk was completed in double quick time. After turning off for Campbelltown it was into the forest on a good track which was sheltered by the trees, it was however extremely steep all the way to the top. On leaving the forest passing through another gate the ground levels out, now the sun has come out and once more it becomes a pleasurable walk,

through Strath Nimhe to East Rhidorroch where the descent is once more steep on a good but wet track, At the back of the house I was confronted with a tall stone dyke flanked by a deer fence, the only way over was on a metal style, into what felt like the garden of the house, once over the style two dogs in the garden spotted me and drew the attention of the owner towards me, I thought I was going to get a roasting from the chap but he just turned round and went back to what he was doing, Passing the left side of the house and across a field to a wire bridge which spans the Rhidorroch River,

then it was a right turn onto a good metaled road which goes all the way past Knockdamph bothy at the East end of Loch an Daimh, this is easy going.                    

Arriving at Knockdamph Bothy,
did I beat Shaun? I had a look in the Bothy book for the last entry, he had been and gone two hours before me leaving a note in the book letting me know he was heading for The School House Bothy.

After an hours rest I continued towards the School House as well, On reaching Abhainn Poiblidh water I couldn’t be bothered changing into my trainers to make the crossing, instead I opted to cross hopping from one exposed rock to the next, putting a rock in where one was missing.



On arrival at the Bothy I was greeted by Shaun who had made himself at home in the very posh
Bothy, After spreading my tent out on the floor in the other room to dry and getting organised for the night we exchanged the experiences of our chosen routes over the last two days whilst having dinner and having a nice relaxing evening before retiring for the night. ZZZZzzzz !